NORTH WEST FRONTIER PROVINCE &
TRIBAL AREAS
North
West Frontier Province, the northern most province of Pakistan, covers an area of 39,283
square miles (101,734 sq. kms) and is bounded by Afghanistan to the west and north, Jammu
and Kashmir to the northeast, Punjab to the southeast and Baluchistan to the southwest.
NWFP
is a mountainous region, but including the Peshawar valley and the broad riverain tract of
the Indus, its climatic conditions are extremely diversified. The northern zone is cold
and snowy in winters with heavy rainfall and pleasant summers, with the exception of
Peshawar basin, which is hot in summer and cold in winter and has moderate rainfall. The
southern zone is arid with hot summers and relatively cold in winter and has scanty
rainfall.
North
West Frontier Province lies between 31o4 and 36o 57' north and 69o 16' and 74o 7' east. It runs for over 1,100 kms (680 miles) along
the border with Afghanistan. The heart of the province is the fertile vale of Peshawar,
which is watered by the Kabul and Swat rivers. NWFP lies on the way from central and west
Asia to the South Asian subcontinent through various passes, including the world famous
Khyber Pass.
The
principal crops are wheat, barley, gram, maize, rice, pulses, cotton, oil seeds and fruits
like grapes, peaches, pears, pomegranates, watermelons and dates.Important minerals are
gypsum, marble, limestone, sandstone and petroleum.
The
province is divided into two areas of separate administrative status, the settled area
governed by ordinary law and the federally administered tribal areas (FATA) governed by
special law administered by the governor as agent to the president.
History
The
early history of the North West Frontier Province relates to the ancient state of Gandhara
"the Garden Land." It included the modern districts of Peshawar and Mardan, part
of Kohat, the Mohmand country, Swat, Bajaur and Buner. Its capital was at different times
at Purushapura (Peshawar) and Pushkalavati (Charsadda), a few miles north of Peshawar.
Gandhara was annexed by the Persian Achaemenid empire in the early 6th century B.C. and
remained a Persian satrapy until 327 B.C. The region then passed to the Greeks.
Alexander
the Great crossed the main range of the Hindu Kush in the spring of 327 B.C. and, dividing
his forces, entered the frontier hills. His armies reached the Indus by two separate
routes - one direct through the Khyber Pass and the other through Kunar, Bajaur, Swat and
Buner.
Within
ten years, Alexander's lieutenants lost control of Gandhara, although the Seleucid Greek
dynasty continued to rule in the upper part of the Kabul River valley. The Greek invasion
was followed by annexation of the region in the Mauryan empire in the second century B.C.
Chandragupta Maurya, the first great native ruler of India, added Gandhara to his empire,
and his grandson Ashoka made Buddhism the religion of the majority of the people. Buddhism
was dominant in the region for several centuries after Ashoka.
After
Ashoka's death, the Greeks again moved down from their stronghold in Bactria and first
Demetrius and then Eucratides ruled Gandhara. About the middle of the second century B.C.,
the rule of the Bactrians degenerated into a series of petty kings. These were soon
attacked by the Parthians and the Sacas who came from central Asia. They finally succumbed
in the beginning of the Christian era to the Kushans, whose most famous king, Kanishka,
established an empire in northwestern India, centered in Peshawar valley.
The
region came under Turk administration, when Sbuktigin gained control of Peshawar by A.D.
988. His son, Mahmud Ghaznavi, invaded northern India several times between 1001 and 1027,
bringing a large area of the present province, excluding Hazara, into Ghaznavid empire.
For more than a century Peshawar remained a province of Ghazni under Mahmud's successors.
In the 15th century the Pathans of Ghor overthrew the Ghaznavis and ruled the area up to
1505 A.D. After the decline of the Ghorids, the region was held by Muslim Afghan
dynasties. In the years that followed, several chieftains established their rule over
different parts of the area. One of the most noted was the Afghan, Buhlul Lodi. In 1451
Buhlul seized the throne at Delhi and founded an Afghan dynasty which lasted for 75 years.
The whole Afghan race shared his royal prestige, and Afghans were soon pushing down from
the highlands of Afghanistan into the frontier hills and through them into India.
In
1504, Babur, the founder of the Mughal empire of India, took Kabul, and in January of 1505
launched his first invasion of India. He came down through the Khyber Pass, Kohat and
Bannu, into the Derajat. In his memoirs, called the Babur-Nama, Babur describes how he
destroyed a tribal ambush and both at Kohat and Hangu erected pillars of the heads of his
fallen foes, according to the customs of his people. He mentioned how he took the daughter
of a Yusufzai chief, Bibi Mubaraka, as his wife.
After
several subsequent incursions, during which he established his rule over Punjab, Babur
shattered the forces of the Lodi sultan at Panipat, near Delhi, on 20 April 1526, and
established the great Mughal empire of India. Until his death in 1530, Babur retained
tenuous control over the frontier. The Pathans, though defeated at Panipat, never gave up
the struggle for power and continued to be in virtual control of a major portion of
northern India. They deployed their forces under Sher Khan, who drove out Humayun from
India and established the Sur dynasty.
In
1585, Akbar, son of Humayun, re-established imperial rule, making his Rajput general
Kunwar Man Singh governor of Peshawar. The following year, the tribes, inflamed by the
teachings of Pir Roshan, who had founded a Muslim sect in the frontier some forty years
earlier, revolted again. The Mohmands moved south, closed the Khyber and drove Man Singh
and his Rajputs out of Peshawar. In 1672 the Afridis under Aimal Khan, their leading
chief, declared jihad (war) against the Mughals. Khushal Khan Khattak, a warrior and poet,
who was chief of the great Khattak tribe, joined forces with Aimal and set out to try to
unify the tribes to resist the Mughals.
Aurangzeb
Alamgir was the last of the great Mughals. He personally led his army to re-establish his
authority over these tribes. The struggle lasted for two years (1673-1675), when finally
the emperor was compelled to agree to terms which left the Pathans practically
independent. After the death of Aurangzeb in 1707 Mughal power crumbled rapidly all over
India. The successors of Aurangzeb retained nominal possession of Peshawar, and in 1738
came the surrender of Peshawar to Nadir Shah, to whom all the territory west of the Indus
was ceded by the Mughals. After the death of Nadir Shah, the Saddozai Durrani dynasty
established itself at Kanhar under Ahmed Shah Abdali, during whose reign Peshawar valley
was brought under his control. In 1793 Shah Shuja, the last of the Saddozai, proclaimed
himself king in Peshawar.
Meanwhile,
the Sikhs under Ranjit Singh had taken over Punjab and were rapidly pushing to the north
and west to pick up other parts of the original Durrani empire. In 1813 the Sikhs seized
Attock and began raiding the trans-Indus districts. In 1818 Ranjit Singh marched into
Peshawar but left without attempting to hold the city. Dera Ismail Khan was also briefly
occupied during the same year. Ranjit Singh returned to the frontier in 1823. After
defeating a combined Afghan tribal force in a great battle near Nowshera, he formally took
possession of Peshawar. However, he allowed the Durrani sardars (chiefs) to remain as his
viceroys. In 1830 the local tribes rose against the Sikhs and captured Peshawar and
managed to hold it for few months. In May of 1834 a large number of Sikh soldiers entered
Peshawar. The Sardars were expelled, and a permanent garrison under Hari Singh was
established.
In
1836, the Sikhs formally annexed Dera Ismail Khan. Kohat was also garrisoned but was
quickly abandoned after Dost Muhammad's army appeared in the Khyber in April of 1837. Hari
Singh was killed in a bitter battle near Jamrud. Ranjit Singh died in June of 1839, and
the Sikh empire lost its vitality and discipline. However a garrison remained at Peshawar,
and the Italian general Avitable ruled as a governor for the Sikhs from 1838 to 1842. The
Sikhs continued their haphazard rule for another seven years until the British took over
their sovereignty in the Lahore darbar on 30 March 1849.
Although
NWFP was a border area of great importance for many years preceding British rule, its
status as a frontier came into even sharper focus after the British conquest. All through
the nineteenth century, as British power in India expanded, buffer zones were created in
order to protect newly won territory. This process repeated itself until British influence
finally reached the border of Afghanistan. The Afghan and British governments agreed on
the international frontier in that area through the Durand Agreement of 1893, which
established the famous Durand Line, named after Sir Mortimer Durand, who worked on its
demarcation.
The
North West Frontier Province was created in 1901 and included the districts of Hazara,
Peshawar, Kohat, Bannu and Dera Ismail Khan., dividing the region into settled and tribal
areas, the later now administered by the federal government under a separate
administrative system. The settled area that constitutes NWFP enjoys the same autonomy as
Pakistan's other provinces.
According
to the 1981 Census, the province has an approximate population of 11.5 million, the
density of population is 142 persons per sq. km., and the estimated labour force is
35,000.
Topography
The
physical features of the province are full of contrasts. There are high mountains and flat
plains, dry and barren tracts and lush green valleys. The province may be divided into the
following three physical divisions:
a)Northern Mountainous Areas
The
districts of Chitral, Dir, Swat, Malakand protected area in Malakand division, Kohistan,
Mansehra and the northeastern part of Abbottabad district in Hazara division are generally
the areas with high mountains. In the extreme northwest of this area, in Chitral district,
lies the famous Hindu Kush range, whose highest peak is "Tirich Mir". There are
several important glaciers in these mountains. From Hindu Kush several other ranges run in
a north-south direction passing through the northwest. In the central part of the area is
the Kohistan range and in the east the offshoots of Himalaya and the Pir Panjal ranges.
The northern mountains are intersected by deep and narrow valleys. The important river
valleys are those of the Chitral, Swat, Panjkore and Kunhar rivers. There are several
mountain passes which permit communications in the area; Lowari, Baroghil, Shandur and
Babusar. The mountains of Swat and Kohistan are generally barren and rugged while those of
Abbottabad and Mansehra are covered with forests.
b)Central Hilly Areas
The
hilly areas of the province cover major parts of Kohat and Bannu districts and portions of
Peshawar and D.I. Khan districts. The Kohat district is a rugged tableland intersected by
ridges and valleys. In the north, the hills extend through tribal areas of Kohat and
Peshawar into the southern part of Peshawar district. The hills between Peshawar and Kohat
districts are known as the Jowaki hills. In the south of Kohat district, these hills
extend into Bannu district, surrounding the whole Bannu plain. In the southeast, these
hills are known as the Sheikh Budin or Marwat range and in the south as the Bhittari
range. The hills in the west are the northern end of the Sulaiman range. In D.I. Khan
district the hills are found in the north, northeast and west. The hills of northern D.I.
Khan are the Marwat range, and those in the northeast are the Khisor range. Most of these
hills are about 1,000 meters high, with the highest point about 2,000 meters.
c)Plains
Peshawar,
Mardan, D. I. Khan, Bannu and Abbottabad districts constitutes the plain of the province.
The Peshawar plain or valley has been formed of rich alluvial soil brought by the Kabul
River. It covers almost the entire Peshawar district. The Kabul River flows through the
centre of this plain from west to east.
The
second important plain is of D.I. Khan district. It is an arid to semi-arid plain bounded
in the north by the Marwat and the Khisor ranges and in the east by the Indus River. In
the west it is bounded by the hills of the Sulaiman range. The western part of this plain
is intersected by hill torrents which flow from the eastern slopes of these hills.
The
Bannu plain is a broad basin of the Kurram and Gambila Rivers. It is surrounded by the
hills of Kohat district in the east, Sheikh Budin or Marwat range in southeast and in the
west by the hills of the Sulaiman range, locally known as the Kharaghora hills. The plain
is drained by the Kurram and Gambila Rivers, which flow from northwest to southeast.
The
last important plain tract of the province lies east of the Indus River in Haripur tehsil
of Abbottabad district. The plain starts at a point where the Dor River emerges from the
hills and runs south between the Nara and Khanpur hills in the east and the Tanawal and
Gandgar hills in the west. The plain is about 50 kilometers in length from northeast to
southwest and about 20 km. wide at the centre near Haripur.
Climate
Climatically
the region is diverse. The D.I. Khan district in the south is one of the hottest areas of
the province with a maximum temperature between 480 - 500 C. The mountainous regions are temperate during
summerswhile winters are extremely cold and often below freezing. There is a wide
variation in precipitation (150 mm in Chitral, 250 mm in southern D.I. Khan and over 1,000
mm in the mountains north of Mansehra). The precipitation is a result of monsoons
(August-September) and the western disturbances (November- March) that are also
responsible for snowfall in the mountainous region.
Rainfall
Rainfall
varies greatly in different parts of the province as well as in summer and winter. The
summer rainfall, is lower than the winter rainfall in Chitral, Dir, Swat and Peshawar
districts. On the other hand, summer rainfall is higher than that of winter in the
districts of Kohat, Bannu, D.I Khan, Mansehra and Abbottabad. The most rainfall is
received in the northeastern part of the province.
River And Streams
The
Indus River enters the province at a place named Sazin in Kohistan district and flows
through the province from northeast to southwest up to Tarbela Dam. The course of the
river in this area is narrow and deep. From Tarbela downwards it flows mostly along the
eastern boundary of the province. All streams and rivers of NWFP except the Kunhar
ultimately flow into the Indus.
The
second important river is the Kabul, which enters Pakistan from Afghanistan, north of the
Khyber Pass along the border of Khyber and Mohmand agencies. It flows from west to east
through the Peshawar plain and flows into the Indus River near Attock.
The
Swat River comes from the northwest mountains of Swat and Kohistan.It flows from north to
south through the middle of Swat district. After leaving Swat district it flows through
Dir district between the border of Dir district and Malakand protected area and then
between of Malakand protected area and Bajaur agency. Later on, it enters Mohmand agency
and then passes through the northwest part of Peshawar district. A tributary of the Swat
River is the Panjkora, which flows from Dir district and joins the Swat River at the
border of Dir district and Malakand protected area. The Chitral river, which in its upper
course is known as the Mastuj River, comes from the Hindu Kush range and crosses Chitral
into Afghanistan at Arandu where it is known as the Kunar River. In the south the
important river is the Kurram, which rises in the southern slopes of the Safed Koh and
flows through Kurram and North Waziristan agencies and Bannu district and merges with the
Indus river. To the east of river Indus is Kunhar. It starts in the mountains near the
Babusar Pass and flows in the Jhelum River at Domel near Muzaffarabad in Jammu and
Kashmir. Other smaller rivers are, Bara in Khyber agency, the Tochi or Gambila, in North
Waziristan agency and Bannu district and the Gomal, in South Waziristan agency and D.I.
Khan district.
Agriculture
Eighty-five
percent of the total population residing in the rural areas of NWFP are directly connected
with agriculture. The government therefore gives top priority to the agricultural sector
for improving the quality of village life as well as the productivity of the land. The
total allocation for the agricultural sector stands at Rs. 142.00 million, an increase of
18.3 percent over 1989-90. Forestry is allocated Rs. 41.00 million. There are a total of
127 schemes in both sectors, of which 75 on-going schemes have been allocated Rs. 136.06
million, or 74.4 percent. The remaining amount of Rs. 46.94 million is earmarked for 52
new schemes. The important physical targets in these sectors are the installation of 345
tube wells.
Principal Crops
Irrigation
is carried out on about one-third of the cultivated land. Wheat, corn (maize), sugar cane,
and tobacco are the major crops. Other crops include millet, barley, rice, and cotton.
Wheat production is highest in Peshawar, Bannu, and Mardan districts, and Hazara, Mardan,
and Peshawar districts are important corn-producing areas. Peshawar and Mardan districts
are also important for the production of sugarcane and tobacco.
Irrigation System
The
irrigation system of the province depends on Kabul River Canal, Lower Swat Canal, Upper
Swat Canal, Warsak-Swat Canal, Marwat Canal, Paharpur Canal and the under construction
CRBC Canal. The canals feed areas that have irrigation at an intensity varying between 134
to 170 percent. The irrigation water from canals is supplemented through tube wells,
largely in Peshawar, Mardan, Bannu and D.I. Khan, either through irrigation wells or wells
dug as part of anti-waterlogging measures. A large number of the wells are also in use in
the barani areas of the province. The irrigation system, coupled with poor drainage of the
soil and heavy cropping intensity have created waterlogging and salinity in the plains of
the province. In order to improve these conditions, many drainage schemes for tube wells,
shallow drains and pipe drains have been introduced under the Federal Accelerated
Programme. In the non-irrigated areas of the province (barani areas) and the areas under
PATA and FATA, irrigated agriculture is largely confined to the development and use of
ground water. It is estimated that nearly 85 percent of the irrigated land including FATA
receives water supplies from irrigation canals and 15 percent from ground water.
Vegetation
As
compared to other provinces, the NWFP has good reserves of forests. These are mostly
coniferous softwood forests with some broad leaf species growing at the lower altitudes.
The principal coniferous trees include fir, deodar, blue pine and spruce.
Shrub
forests are found over large areas in the foothills and plains of Peshawar, Mardan and
Kohat districts. Kohat district is also famous for the dwarf palm, locally known as mazri.
Administration
The
province is divided into two areas of separate legal and administrative status, the
Federally Administered Tribal Areas (FATA) and the settled districts. The tribal areas,
close to the borders of Afghanistan, lie between the Durand Line and the settled
districts. During British rule, these areas served as a buffer zone between British India
and Afghanistan. However after Pakistan emerged as an independent sovereign state, the
tribal areas became an integral part of Pakistan and were given special status. This
helped to protect their profoundly Islamic socio-cultural pattern and also improved their
socio-economic conditions. They are governed by special laws administered by the NWFP
governor as agent to the president of Pakistan.
With
its capital at Peshawar, NWFP is comprised of six administrative divisions, having two to
four districts in each division. Peshawar division has Peshawar, Charsadda and Nowshera
districts; Hazara division has Abbottabad, Mansehra and Kohistan districts; Malakand
division has Swat, Chitral and Dir districts and Malakand agency; Mardan division has
Mardan and Swabi districts; Kohat division has Kohat and Karak districts; and Dera Ismail
Khan division has D.I. Khan and Bannu districts.
Each
of these districts is broken down into several tehsils (smaller administrative units).
Between the settled districts to the south and the Afghan border is the tribal area. The
tribal area is divided into Bajaur (Malakand), Mohmand, Khyber, Kurram, North Waziristan,
South Waziristan,and Aurakazi agencies, each of which is headed by a political agent.
There are also tribal areas administered by Peshawar, Kohat, Dera Ismail and Bannu
districts. The governor is the chief executive. In the directly administered areas, the
provincial secretariat is headed by a chief secretary. A commissioner is in charge of each
division, and the districts are headed by deputy commissioners. At the district level,
judicial functions are performed by district and sessions judges; civil judges, and
magistrates also perform some executive functions. In each tehsil an official called the
tehsildar collects revenue and discharges judicial and executive functions.
Races And Tribes
The
ethnography of the North West Frontier Province tribes forms an interesting study. The
numerically strong tribes in the province are the Pathans, Awans, Gujars and Jats. Of
these the Pathans are the largest.
The
important Pathan tribes are the Yusufzais of Malakand agency, the Mohmands, the Afridis of
the Khyber agency and of the Kohat Pass, the Orakzais of Tirah, the Turis of Kurram, the
Waziris of North and South Waziristan, the Mahsuds, and the Bhitannis and Shiranis of Dera
Ismail Khan. In the settled districts, the Yusufzais of Mardan, the Khalils, Mohmands,
Muhammadzais, Daudzais, Gigianis and Khattaks of Peshawar district, the Khattaks and
Bangashes of Kohat, the Marwats, Bannuchis and Waziris of Bannu, and the Gandapurs, Kundis
and Mian Khels of Dera Ismail Khan are the more important tribes.
There
are other minor tribes such as the Jaduns of Hazara and Swabi, the Shinwaris and
Mullagories of the Khyber, the Babars, and the Dawars. The strongest in number are the
Yusufzais, mostly found in the two border states of Dir and Swat and the adjoining
district of Mardan. Next to Yusufzais are the Khattaks, mostly found in Peshawar and
Kohat. The third are the Marwats, who are found almost exclusively in Bannu.
The
Afridis, the Mahsuds and the Wazirs are considered to be the best guerilla fighters in the
world, while the Yusufzais and Khattaks are noted for their fine physique and martial
qualities. Next to the Pathans are the Awans. They are an agricultural tribe like the
Pathans and have many characteristics in common with them. The Awans are scattered over
the whole province.
The
Jats and Balochs of Dera Ismail Khan and the Tanawalis and Gujars of Hazara do not figure
much in the population of the province. The Gakhars of Hazara have been frequently
mentioned in history and have occupied a position of importance in the pre-Mughal and
succeeding periods.
Language
The
language of Pakhtuns is called Pushto. While there is no dispute over the name of the
language Pashtuns speak, its origin is disputed. Most authors agreed that it is both in
origin and structure an Iranian language which has borrowed freely from the Indo-Aryan
Group, although others believe it is probably a Saca dialect from the north. The general
opinion, however, is that Pushto is a branch of the original Iranian language.
The Role Of Women
Pukhtun
women have a limited role in public affairs. In the tribal area, all of the women of the
malik's family and other families who make a claim to social distinction observe purdah,
(veil). This does not mean that upper-class Pathan women lack influence. Intelligent and
aggressive within the limits prescribed by custom, these women direct the substantial
domestic affairs of their men and play a large part in arranging marriages and family
alliances.Sometimes directly through negotiations with female members of the other family;
and sometimes through the intermediary of go-betweens.
The
women also provide the practical means of implementing the demands of melmastia
(hospitality), an important part of Pukhtunwali. The women are as fanatically devoted to
Pukhtunwali as their men and are frequently an important factor in urging the obligations
of badal (revenge) on their lazy or reluctant males. The wives of ordinary tribesmen do
most of the work cooking, harvesting the crops, looking after cattle, sewing and washing
and so on.
Federally Administered Tribal Areas
(FATA)
Beside
the four provinces in the country, there are certain areas, which enjoy special status,
with a special administration under the relevant ministries of the federal government.
These areas include the Federally Administered Tribal Areas (FATA), Federally Administered
Northern Areas (FANA) and Azad Kashmir. The FATA comprise the tribal agencies of Bajaur,
Mohmand, Khyber, Orakzai, Kurram, North Waziristan and South Waziristan and four frontier
regions (F.R.) attached to the districts of Dera Ismail Khan, Bannu, Kohat and Peshawar.
These
areas, which otherwise lie within the geographical boundaries of the NWFP, are
administered at the federal level by the states and Frontier regions divisions, while the
governor of NWFP acts as the agent to the president of Pakistan for these areas and
exercises immediate, executive authority in FATA.
FATA
has a total area of 27,200 sq.km, while the population of the area was estimated at 2.199
million in the census of 1981. The tribal belt, which skirts the international border
between Pakistan and Afghanistan is a legacy left by the British, who made several
abortive attempts to push forward into Afghanistan. Now many tribes inhabiting the areas
enjoy certain amount of autonomy to preserve their own identity. The opening of the
Karakoram Highway has given these areas additional strategic and political significance.
The
Federally Administered Northern Areas (FANA) are spread over 72,496 sq.km with a
population of 574,543, according to the census of 1981.
States And Frontier Regions
Division(SAFRON)
The
States and Frontier Regions Division (SAFRON) is responsible for administration and
development of the Federally Administered Tribal Areas (FATA), organizing material and
monetary assistance for Afghan refugees, financing and control of the civil armed forces
(Frontier constabulary), levies, khassadars and matters relating to former princely
states.
Bajaur Agency
It
is bounded on the north and northeast by Dir district, on the east by Malakand protected
area, on the south by Mohmand agency and on the west by Afghanistan. It comprises five
valleys: Chaharmung, Babukara, Watalai (or ut-lai), Rub and the Sur Kamar Valley. The
agency headquarters is located at Khar. The agency lies between 340 - 30/ and 340/ - 58/ north latitudes and 710 - 11/ and 710 - 48/ east longitudes. The total area of the agency is
1,290 sq. kms.
The
area is mountainous and inaccessible. In the northern part mountain ranges are 3,000
meters high. Towards the south the height gradually decreases, and on the southern border,
peaks are slightly over 2,500 meters high. The Panjkora River flows in a southern
direction until it joins the Swat River, which flows along the eastern boundary of this
agency. The agency has an extreme climate. The winter season starts in November and lasts
up to March. The winters are extremely cold, and sometimes the temperature falls below
freezing. December, January, February are the coldest months. The summer season lasts from
May to October. June, July and August are the hottest months.
The
major crops are wheat, barley, rice and sugar cane. Cultivation is mostly dependent upon
rainfall, which is scanty and uncertain. A very small area is irrigated by small channels.
Public, or rather tribal, affairs are managed by the Jirga or assembly of the elders and
in this assembly each landowner has a vote.
Khyber Agency
Khyber
agency is named after the famous Khyber Pass, which is the most vital and important link
between Pakistan and Central Asia via Afghanistan. The headquarters of the agency are in
Peshawar (outside the agency). The agency lies between 330 - 45/ and 340/ - 20/ north latitudes and 700-27/and 710-32/ east longitudes. It is bounded on the northwest by
Afghanistan, on the north by Mohmand agency, on the east by Peshawar district, on the
south by Orakzai agency and the tribal area adjoining Kohat district and on the west by
Kurram agency. The total area of the agency is 2,576 sq. kms.
Khyber
agency is a mountainous tract with strips of narrow valleys. It is the meeting place of a
series of the Safed Koh and offshoots of the Hindu Kush mountains starting from the Pamir,
the roof of the world. The mountains are generally barren, and water is scarce. The Khyber
Pass starts about five kilometers beyond Jamrud Fort. Most of the valleys are dry and have
very little land suitable for cultivation. The area near the Bara River is, however,
fertile. The Bara River flows in the southern part of the agency while the Kabul River
flows between Khyber and Mohmand Agencies. The valley of the Kabul River is narrow and
deep.
The
agency has an extreme climate. The summer season lasts from May to October. June, July and
August are the hottest months. The winter season starts in November and continues until
April. December, January and February are the coldest months.
The
major crops are wheat, maize, sugar cane. The main sources of irrigation are canals and
surface wells. The Bara River canal scheme, which originates from the Bara River near
Khajuori, is the biggest multi-purpose irrigation scheme after Warsak Dam.
In
1980-81, there were three large scale industrial units, a vegetable ghee mill and a
cigarette factory in Bara and a marble factory at Pendi Lalma. The manufacture of guns,
rifles and daggers is the only cottage industry. A metalled road runs from Peshawar to
Torkham via Jamrud and Landi Kotal. Other important places of the agency, like Bara and
Shahidmena, are also connected with Peshawar through metalled roads.
The
agency is also served by a railway line between Peshawar and Landi Kotal. The principal
railway stations on this line are Jamrud Fort, Shagai and Landi Kotal. It runs parallel to
the highway and the famous old carvan route linking Afghanistan to South Asia.
Kurram Agency
Kurram
agency takes its name from the River Kurram which flows between the Peiwar kotal in the
West and the borders of Miranzai in the East. It is bounded on the north and west by
Afghanistan, on the east by Khyber and Orakzai agency and on the south by Kohat district
and North Waziristan agency. The headquarters of the agency are located at Parachinar. The
agency lies between 330 - 20/ and 340/ - 03/ north latitudes and 690 - 51/ and 700 - 45/ east longitudes. It has an area of about 1278 square
miles.
The
Kurram agency is mountainous. The most famous mountain range is the Safed Koh to the north
of the agency along the Afghanistan border. The range begins at Peiwar Kotal and rises
steeply northwards to an average height of 4,000 metres and constitutes a natural boundary
with Afghanistan. Its highest peak is Skaram Sar with a height of 4,754 metres. It remains
covered with snow almost throughout the year. Apart from the high mountains, the other
important geographical feature is the Kurram valley. The valley extends northwest from
Thal in Kohat district to Peiwar Kotal on the Afghanistan border, a length of about 115
kms.
The
climate of Kurram agency is cold in winter and warm in summer. The summer season generally
lasts from May to September. The warmest months are June, July and August. The winter
season starts in October and continues until April. December, January and February are the
coldest months.
The
major crops are wheat, rice, pulses, and maize. The main source of irrigation are water
channels. These channels are fed by the snow water of the Safed Koh. The agency
headquarters in Parachinar is linked with other important towns through metalled roads.
Mohmand Agency
Mohmand
agency takes its name from the Mohmand tribe, who inhabits the area. This agency was
established in 1951. The agency headquarters are at Ghallanay. The agency lies between 340-43/ north latitudes and 70o/-58/ and 710-42/ east longitudes. It is bounded on the north by
Bajaur agency, on the east by Malakand protected area and Peshawar district, on the south
by Khyber agency and on the west by Afghanistan.
It
is an area of rugged mountains with barren slopes. The general slope of the area is from
northwest to southeast, with an average height of over 1,450 meters. Ilazai (2,716 meters)
is the highest peak, and other important peaks are Yari Sar, (1,929 meters) and Silai
(1,768 meters). The Kabul River flows along the southern boundary of the agency. The Swat
River passes through the eastern part and has its course from north to south. The main
tributaries of the Swat River in Mohmand agency are Karzine Khawar and Ambahar river.
The
climate is hot and dry in summer and cold and dry in winter. The summer season commences
in April and continues until October. June, July and August are the hottest months. The
winter season lasts from November to March. December, January and February are the coldest
months. The major crops are wheat, sugar cane and maize. The main sources of irrigation
are canals and open wells. Warsak Dam has greatly improved irrigation. The right bank
irrigation canal running through a tunnel in the Mullagori hills irrigates a large area in
the agency.
There
is a glass factory at Ghallanay. Cottage industries include the manufacture of shot guns,
pistols and daggers. Ghallanay is connected with Peshawar by a metalled road.
North Waziristan Agency
The
name of the agency is derived from the famous Wazir tribe. It is bounded on the north by
Afghanistan, Kurram agency and Kohat district, on the east by the tribal area adjoining
Bannu district, on the south by South Waziristan agency and on the west also by
Afghanistan. The Agency comprises four large and fertile valleys: In the north the Lower
Kurram Valley between the Kurram Agency on the upper reaches of that river and Bannu
District; The Kaitu Valley; Daur in the valley of Tochi, the most open and fertile of the
four; and the Khaisura Valley in the South. The headquarters of the agency are located at
Miran Shah. It lies between 320 35/ and 330 22/ north latitudes and 600 - 22/ and 700 38/ east longitudes. The total area of the agency is
4,707 sq. kms.
The
agency is mountainous. The mountains of North Waziristan are geographically apart from the
larger mountain system of the Safed Koh to the north and the Sulaiman to the south. The
highest points are in the west along the border with South Waziristan. The important
mountain ranges are the Mazdak and Laram along the border with Afghanistan in the
northwest. The Tochi River flows from west to east in the central part of this agency. The
Kaitu and Kurram are the other two rivers which flow in a southeast direction in the
northern part of the agency.
The
climate of North Waziristan is cold in winter and warm in summer. The summer season starts
in May and continues until September. June is generally the warmest month. Winter starts
in October and continues until April. December, January and February are the coldest
months. The main crops are wheat, maize, sugar cane, dates, and persimmons. The main
sources of irrigation are springs, canals, karezes and tubewells.
In
1981, a match factory and a woollen textile mill were the two large scale industrial units
in the agency. There are also two industrial training/production centers for metal and
woollen textiles at Miran Shah. Cottage industries includes metal work, dying of
cotton/woollen cloth, carpet weaving, wool spinning, and rope and basket making. Miran
Shah is connected with other important places in the agency through metalled roads.
Orakzai Agency
This
agency takes its name from the Orakzai tribe. It was created after the 1972 census. The
Orakzai and Daulatzai tribes were formerly included in the tribal area adjoining Kohat
district. The agency is bounded on the north by Khyber agency, on the east by the tribal
area adjoining Kohat district, on the south by Kohat district and on the west by Kurram
agency. The headquarters of the agency are at Kalaya. It is located between 330 - 33/ and 330 - 54/ north latitudes and 700 - 36/ and 710 - 22/ east longitudes. The total area of the agency is
1,538 sq. kms.
Orakzai
agency is a mountainous tract dissected by numerous dry and arid water courses, especially
in the southwestern part of the agency. The height of the hills varies from over 3,000
meters in the west to less than 2,000 meters in the east. The Bara River runs along the
northeastern boundary before again entering into Khyber agency. The two other major
streams are the Mastura and Khanki Toi.
Orakzai
agency enjoys fairly pleasant summers and extremely cold winters. Summer starts in May and
lasts until October. June, July and August are the hottest months. Winter starts in
November and continues until April. December, January and February are the coldest months.
Most of the rainfall takes place during the months of March, April, July and August.
The
major crops are maize, wheat, and rice. Most of the area is hilly and is not fit for
cultivation. A very small area is irrigated by streams and water courses fed by snow
water. There is no large scale industrial unit in the agency.
South Waziristan Agency
The
agency derives its name from the Wazir tribe, who live in the agency. It is bounded on the
north by North Waziristan agency and the tribal area adjoining Bannu district, on the east
by Bannu district and the tribal area adjoining D.I. Khan district, on the south by Zhob
district and the tribal area adjoining D.I. Khan district and on the west by Afghanistan.
The Agency includes all the country occupied by the Mahsuds, and, the West portions of the
country of the Darwesh Khel Wazir. The headquarters of the agency are at Wana. The agency
lies between 310 - 49/ and 320 - 48/ north latitudes and 690 - 15/ and 700 - 28/ east longitudes. The total area of the agency is
6,619 sq. kms.
The
agency is mostly a mass of rugged and complex hills and ridges. The dominating range is
the Spera Ghar in the west along the border with Afghanistan. It is 3,515 meters high. The
Gomal, Tak Zam and Shahur are the important rivers. The agency has a warm summer and very
cold winter. However, the areas in the southwest adjacent to Bannu and D.I. Khan districts
experience a hot summer. The summer season starts from May and lasts up to September. June
is generally the warmest month. The winter starts in October and continues until April.
December, January and February are the coldest months.
The
major crops are maize, wheat, rice, and apples. The main sources of irrigation are water
channels. A part of the land is irrigated by small irrigation schemes. There are two large
scale industrial units for leather and footwear in the agency. The main cottage industries
are wool carding, woollen durries, carpet making, weaving, finishing of cotton and woollen
cloth, processing of hides and skins, and manufacture of chappals, shoes, and belts. The
agency headquarters in Wana are connected with all other important places through metalled
roads.
Tribal Area Adjoining Bannu District
This
is bounded on the north by Kohat district, on the east by Bannu district, on the south by
South Waziristan agency and on the west by North Waziristan agency. It is located between
230 - 45/ and 330 - 16 north latitudes and 700 - 13/ and 700 - 52/ east longitudes. Its total area is 877 sq. kms.
The
entire territory of this tribal area is composed of hills of medium height between 450 to
1,200 meters. The highest peak (1,216 meters) of the area is located to the south of
Walai. The Kharaghora is the prominent range in the souther part of the area with an
average height of almost 850 meters. Three of the important western tributaries of the
Indus River, the Kurram, Baran and Tochi, flow across this tribal area. The area
experiences hot summers and cold winters. Summer starts in April and continues until
October. June, July and August are the hottest months. Winter starts in November and lasts
until March. December, January and February are the coldest months.
Tribal Area Adjoining D.I. Khan
District
The
territory is not compact but consists of two separate units in the north and south,
separated by the southern corner of South Waziristan agency. The northern part is known as
Bhitanni area while the southern part as Argha Shirani area. The northern part is bounded
on the north and west by South Waziristan agency, on the east by Bannu district and on the
south by Tank tehsil of D.I. Khan district. The southern part is bounded on the north by
South Waziristan agency, on the east by Kulachi tehsil of D.I. Khan district, on the south
by D.G. Khan and Loralai districts and on the west by Zhob district. As a whole it is
located between 310 - 04/ and 320/ - 38/ north latitudes and 690 - 55/ and 700 - 35/east longitudes. Its
total area is 3,229 sq. km.
The
northern part of the tribal area is mostly covered by the dry Bhitanni Hills, gradually
sloping from northwest to southeast. The highest point of these hills is 1,943 meters
above sea level located near the northern border on the watershed of the Zia Plaiwan
stream. The southern part is composed of the Sulaiman mountains in the west which are of
considerable height and comparatively lower hills on the entire eastern side. A number of
peaks in this range are over 2,750 meters high. Takht-e-Sulaiman is the highest point of
the Sulaiman range with a height of 3,374 meters. Important streams in this part are the
Tangi Khawar and Rangharar Khawar, the main tributaries of the Khora river.
The
area has warm summers and very cold winters. Summer starts in April and lasts until
October. June, July and August are the hottest months. Winter starts in November and lasts
until March. December, January and February are the coldest months.
Tribal Area Adjoining Kohat District
It
is bounded on the north by Khyber agency, Peshawar district and the tribal area adjoining
Peshawar district, on the east and south by Kohat district and on the west by Orakzai
agency. It is located between 330 - 33/ and 330/ - 46/ north latitudes and 710 - 21/ and 710 - 50/ east longitudes. Its total area is 446 sq. kms.
The
area is composed of a variety of land forms. The western part is higher and more complex
with the average height of the hills around 1,500 meters. The highest point of the area is
located near the western border and is 1,918 meters high. In the eastern half, the height
of the hills decreases, and hills flanking the narrow area are about 600 meters high. The
area has a warm summer and cold winters. Summer starts in May and lasts until October.
May, June, July are the warmest months. Winter season starts in November and lasts until
April. December, January and February are the coldest months.
Tribal Area Adjoining Peshawar District
It
is bounded on the north and east by Peshawar district, on the south by Kohat district and
on the southwest by the tribal area adjoining Kohat district. It is located between 330 - 39/ and 340/ - 32/ north latitudes and 710 - 32/ and 710 - 52/ east longitudes. Its total area is 261 sq. Kms. The
entire area is hilly and slopes in the northeast and northwest direction, from an average
height of over 1,300 meters to a height of about 600 meters. The highest peak is 1,397
meters above sea level, located in the south of Jinakor. The area has warm summers and
cold winters. Summer starts in May and lasts until October. May, June and July are the
warmest months. Winter starts in November and lasts until April. December, January and
February are the coldest months. |
